Getting a
proper handle for a Finnish axe is a difficult today as there are hardly any
pre-made shafts made available on the market. Shafts can be still be ordered
from some Finnish carpentry-shops, but for the dismay of Finnish axe fans,
these are not made available for international customers.
 |
| Image 1. Kellokoski 12:2 and modified Finnish-carpentryshop shaft. |
The shaft
Making your
own shaft is always possible, but for many it might be surprisingly difficult.
Shaping a good shaft requires an acute eye for details and design. It is
important to realize that the axe head is not just made as ergonomic as
possible, the shaft has to also be able to absorb some of the violent
vibrations that occur when using the axe for cleaving and cutting.
 |
| Image 2. A set of old axe-handles, the one on the left is a store bought shaft. Old shafts tend to have more of a bend and a shorter grip than the ones that were developed during the early 20th century. |
The handle
is not just a static lump of wood as the lower part of the shaft is in fact shaped
so it will act as a efficient chock-absorber. This is a key difference to other
types of wooden axe-handles today, which do not have this feature. Keep in mind
that birch is the preferred material due to its good carving qualities and its
durability. The same design that applies for birch handles might be less suited
to other types of hardwoods.
 |
| Image 3. A store bought Finnish birch-shaft before carving. |
Developing
a good “eye” for axe shafts takes some time. A way of developing necessary
carving skills and a sense of form is to make miniature handles, approx.
12-15cm long, and compare these to the design you are trying to copy. Over time
you will excel and be able to make a good handle on “eye” only. The proper
length of the shaft is determined upon the use of the axe. A cleaving axe
handle should reach to the palm of your hand when standing upright and having
the shaft standing on the floor next to your leg. A utility axe-handle should
reach to the second joint of the index finger.
 |
| Image 4. Axe-handle blueprint. |
Fitting the head.
This is
where many people get it wrong. The sleeve or the collar of the axe is long and
slim and not short and flat which is the case with American style axes. Also,
the sleeve is slightly curved and not straight, which is a feature that many
people fail to realize. Depending on personal
preference, one can carve out a “ridge” at the point to where the bottom
of the collar extends, in which case the end result will look more smooth. The
head can also just be slid down on the shaft without carving a distinct ridge.
Both versions are just as good and in fact the latter might be more durable.
 |
| Image 5. The axe is ready to be fitted on the handle. |
Make sure
to leave enough room on both sides of the handle section that will go inside
the sleeve so that the groove can easily fit a wedge. The wedge is
traditionally carved from a resinous piece of tight grained pine. The reason for
this is that the sap will aid in driving the wedge deep inside the sleeve. This
happens when the friction of the blow heats up the sap and it becomes and
effective lubricant. Once the sap cools down the wedge will stick just like
glue. It also helps to make a small notch groove on one side of the wedge to
make it stick better.
 |
| Image 6. The wedge-slot should be about 2/5th lengt of the sleeve. |
There are
two very different approaches as to how the handle should be treated before
shafting. Some people used to boil the top of the handle and then force the
head as far down the shaft as possible.
 |
| Image 7. The wedges are made of resinous pine. |
Others would make sure that the handle
was as dry as possible. I have used the latter technique, often even drying the
shaft end in front of a fire before hafting. Please note that too much
scorching will make the wood brittle and it will break. Keep in mind that the
axe head has to be fitted at a downward facing angle. This is important as it
will effect balance and accuracy. Also the fit has to be snug, if you get it wrong here your axe will not stay on the handle and it will keep getting loose. Take your time with this stage, remember that the "devil is in the details".
 | ||
| Image 8. The wedge is driven in the slot. |
Image credits
1-3, 5-8. Marcus Lepola
4. Nordiska knivar.
Thanks for the useful information.
ReplyDeleteIs there a website where I can get the Axe handle and bucksaw blueprints?
Hi Dale. I have scattered prints and measurements. I will try to make them available on the blog during early fall.
DeleteHi. Very interesting. Do you know if the shape ot this "Finnish style" haft has changed over time. In Northern America it seems that a straight haft vas the norm up until the mid 19th century when it became possible or easier to produce curved hafts. Even though straight hafts always seemed to be preferred by loggers. Like in NA in Finland It would generally have been easier and faster (time being money or bread in your mouth) to make a straight haft.
ReplyDeleteThere is some localized variations but the general shape of all axe-shafts since the early 19th century has been along the same lines as the late version of the Finnish birch wood haft. Loggers in particular were very mindful of their hafts as a clumsy handle inspired other loggers to tease and ridicule the unskilled carver.
DeleteI recently acquired a Billnas 1123 and a Kellokoski 12.3
ReplyDeleteI made birch handles for both from old patterns
They are very good axes and I am pleased with them!
I don't know how to post pictures here though. The handles turned out very well they were made from crooked birch bow staves I split 20+ years ago.