Growing knowledge of Finnish made axes has created a wide market for these vintage tools. The Kemi-model axe made by the Billnäs Forge in Finland is
among the most coveted traditional Finnish axes. The Kemi model is also known as
the “twelve”, due to the serial number given by the forge. These axes were
manufactured from the early 1900s up until the early 1970s. Over the years the
model experienced some small changes in design. The size
of the socket and in the thickness of the blade were modified over time. Generally speaking the “Twelve”
progressively became slightly lighter in time as metal quality and forging
technics improved.
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1. Finnish lady splitting fire wood during WW2. |
The twelves were available in three sizes; 12/1, 12/2 and
12/3. The 12/2 was most popular at 1.4kg. The largest 12/1 weighted 1.6km and
was an effective felling axe. The smallest axe, the 12/3, was used as a limbing
axe, women and children preferred to use the 12:3 for splitting firewood as it
was lighter (around 1,1 kg) and easier to use.
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2. An Kellokoski advertisment from 1927, the axe appears a bit too big for the user. |
In Finland
the 1936 version of the Billnäs “Twelve”, the 12/2 M36, was regarded as a superior
felling axe by the Finnish Work Efficiency Society. (Fin. Työtehoseura).
The
popular "Twelves" were constantly tested and revised by the Finnish
Work Efficiency Association. Feed-back on necessary improvements from the users were forwarded to the forge.
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3. Finnish soldiers carving axe hafts during WW2. Museum of North Ostrobothnia. |
Billnäs was not the only
company to make these axes. A rival company, Kellokoski-Mariefors also made
similar axes as Billnäs with identical labeling. However, Kellokoski struggled
with steel quality issues which gave the company a bad reputation among loggers even if both companies provided an extensive warranty service. Kellokoski was never able to compete with Billnäs who was the market leader in axes.
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4. Two Twelves from the 1960s, a Kellokoski 12:3(top) and a Billnäs 1123, which is slightly more worn than the Kellokoski. |
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Axes were in general sold without hafts up until the 1940s as everyone was expected to make their own hafts to fit the axe. The axe hafts became more standardized in shape and perfomance during WW2 when Finnish soldiers posted along the Sovjet front made use of spare time in between battles for making crafts such as axe hafts. Good axe hafts were necessary for the families back home who relied on firewood for warming the houses and to cook food. Different courses in haft making were organized for the soldiers using templates recommended by experts from the Work Efficiency Society.
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5. Two Billnäs axes with 1940s style hafts. The top one is a 12/2 and the bottom one a more unusal 17/2 model. |
The Fiskars
company became a majority shareholder in the Billnäs Company in the 1920s but
the production of steel goods in Billnäs continued as usual up until 1957 when
the Fiskars company finally took over the whole factory. At this time the Fiskars company
modified the manufacturing process of the ”Twelves”, which were now made out of
cast steel. The labeling of the axes also changed; the number “1” was added to
the make number 12 and the slash was removed. A 12/2 was now labeled as 1122
and was in production until the early 1970s when it was discontinued and
replaced with a new series of axes. The Billnäs name remained stamped on the
axes for a while, but by the 1980s the Fiskars company had replaced the Billnäs
print with it´s own name.
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6.The last of the Billnäs axes from 1980s; 1132 (top) and 1134. |
Rapid modernizations
in forestry and the lumber industry were to blame for the disappearance of the twelve
and many other native axe types in Finland. The chainsaw grew in popularity and
axes became obsolete. Axes were henceforth mainly used for splitting fire wood
and manufacturers needed to manufacture axes that would function well for that
single purpose. Also people became less capable of tending to their axes such
as mending hafts or sharpening blades, therefore the axes needed to be drurable
as well as simple to maintain. The most resent Fiskars series composite haft
axes are the result of this development.
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7. Felling a tree with a chain saw in the 1950s. Museum of North Carelia. |
Finding proper axe heads
12s and other Finnish made axe heads are still found in Finland, but there is a great variety in quality and condition among the axes that are made available. Typically axes are sold in garage sales and at flea markets. There are few things any eager pursuer of a Finnish axe head should be aware of before buying one online.
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8. Good examples of bad axes in the 1940 manual "The Forestry Tool Guide" (Fin. Metsätyökaluopas) |
First off a photo, even if it is a good one, will not necessarily tell you if the axe is in good condition. Cracks and other damages can be hard to spot from just looking at a photo. A twisted blade is also hard to determine from a photograph, but will make life hard for anyone hafting the head. Rust is not necessarily a problem as it is easy to clean off, however rust might cover up cracks and therefore rusty axes should be avoided unless they are cleaned by the seller.
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9. A crack has developed from a smashed poll on a Kellokoski 12/2 axe. |
The blade and the poll are good indicators of the condition of an axe. The iron on the poll is soft and will mushroom easily. The poll is design to be used for hitting wooden stakes and wedges, it will not withstand hitting on hard steel wedges or rocks. If an axe has been used frequently as an hammer the poll will mushroom and potentially cause cracking along the sleeve. Hammering can also smash the sleave and render the whole axe useless.
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10. Top view of two Billnäs 12/2s. The lower one is in perfect condition. The top one is worn and the sleeve or socket has been slightly deformed by hammering. |
An axe head might have withstood considerable abuse which is visible in a worn down blade and a beaten upp poll. The poll on the 12 is made of softer iron which is intended to absorb some of the energy of a strike and in doing so keeping the socket from being deformed. A deformed socket will make hafting difficult if not all together impossible.
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11. Four Billnäs 12/3s. The first two from the left are in good condition, the third one is too worn down and the fourth has been resteeled. |
The amount of wear on the blade can sometimes be hard to determine for the untrained eye. The "Twelves" were designed to withstand a considerable amount of wear, but at some point the axe will become too short to perform well and needs to resteeled or reworked by a blacksmith. It was common to send worn axes back to the facory to be repaired as this procedure only cost half as much as a new axe head. The worn axes were refitted with a new carbon steel blade which was forge welded on the head.
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12. Swedish language add from the 1950s regarding axe repair services offered by the Kellokoski-Mariefors company. |
Axe
heads that bear the mark of this procedure are occasionally sold and
easy to identifie due to the rough, but functional workmanship.These reworked axes are usually without issues and will perform well. The forge welded joinery is often clear as the axes were seldom cleaned and polished after the procedure.
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13. A Billnäs 12/3 which has been resteeled. The forge welded joint of new blade is clearly visible and is in fact larger than the original was. |
Another similar, but less expensive procedure is the rehammering of the blade, but this procedure was not done by the large companies, rather they were attempted by local smiths in crude forges. In this procedure the blade is streched out by hammering. Axes that have undergone this procedure are recognizable as the blades appear thinner and there are clear hammering marks on the cheeks. This is actually a good way to repair an axe, but some of this type or repaires are too crude. An experienced blacksmith can, however, remold beautiful and fully functional heads using this procedure.
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14. A rough-looking "Twelve" which has at one point been re-hammered in a forge and been in use for a number of years after that procedure. |
Any issues regarding the quality of the metal are almost impossible to determine just by looking at a picture of an axe. Powergrinding marks on the blade might indicate that the temper has been drawn from the blade due to excessive heat by the grinding process. This latter damage can be assessed by pulling a good hardened metalfile across the sede of the blade and feel how if it cuts in to the hardened metal, if it glides it´s an indication that the temper might be noneffected.
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15. Three 12/3. The one to the left is in perfect original condition, the one in the middle is worn out and the one to the right has been rehammered and retempered from a worn head by a skilled blacksmith. |
Some axe heads that are sold today might have originally been sourced from a factory back storage after the production halted. This can be a problem since failed series of axes were usually stored at factories for reuse. Luckily there are few of these axes around as most were sold as scrap metal when the factories closed and only few survived the scrapping.
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16. A small part of the blade of this Kellokoski 12/3 has broken off. This might indicate problems with tempering or poor metal quality. |
Marcus Lepola
Image sources;
Finnish Wartime Photograph Archive.
Museum of North Ostrobothnia.
Museum of North Karelia.
Marcus Lepola photo archives
THANKS,Marcus,EXCELLENT article.
ReplyDeleteA quick question,if by chance you'd know:You mention that "... At this time the Fiskars company modified the manufacturing process of the ”Twelves”, which were now made out of cast steel...."
Do you mean by that Forged from Cast Steel(as in many Sheffield tools,et c.,meaning the fairly new then steel-making process),or actually Cast of Steel(of whatever composition)?
Thanks in advance,and really do appreciate your contributions to the spreading of Kirves knowledge.
Best regards,Jake
Hey, great article, really enjoyed reading it. Is there any literary source for citation about the factory re-steeling of worn axes? It would be very handy for my dissertation. Thanks!
ReplyDeleteHi Peter, I seldom have the time to reply to questions asked on the blog and on my youtube channel. Image 8 and 12 in the article you commented on are valid litterary sources, Image 8 is page 18 from Metsätyökaluopas 1940. The comment next to the photo of the axe head states that an worn axe like this has to be replaced or sent to be resteeled. The other image is an ad for Kellokoski offering to resteel worn axeheads.
DeleteSorry,Petr,it's a very interesting subject,but here's all that i,personally,have came across in a great while....:
ReplyDeletehttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bvAsktFTvgM
Thanks, I know that video. I'm well aware of how it's done (I forge as well), but I wanted to know more about the fact that a factory actually offered to fix their old axes. You know, some literary source that could be quoted in a text.
DeleteI found your this post while searching for information about blog-related research ... It's a good post .. keep posting and updating information. best-battle-throwing-axes-for-beginners
ReplyDeleteMy trusty 12:1 is so sexy and has so much character she's hard to look at! like a beautiful Roman coin, but one U could wac a town out of virgin Forest with. No problem.
ReplyDeleteI forgot to mention that I became so interested in this axe type that I actually bought a vintage Kellokoski head on ebay and restored it. The poll was just very lightly beaten, so I easily touched it up with a file, then I drew the worn blade back to shape and good edge profile and did new heat treatment. I made great effort (at least I thought so!) to make the shaft fit correctly. Despite that and despite the fact that I've made and fitted dozens of shafts for other axes and tools before, the head flew off the shaft twice during work! First time it luckily missed my friend's head. I improved the fit some more and tried it again...second time it flew off and missed my car's front window just by couple cm. I really don't know what's the trick to make it hold right. I mean, hey, the socket is smooth and conical. All that holds the haft is friction. And as the tool is used, it receives a lot of impact and vibrations, which can knock the friction fit loose...I would love to see what's the catch. I really understand why did people drill a hole for a screw/nail to secure the heads. Even medieval socketed axes were secured that way. But apparently, it seems to have worked well for the Finns even without the nail and I fail to understand how.
ReplyDeletePetr L. check the video https://youtu.be/qVSIT5W7Zqg at about 8:10 mark, it shows the recommended method for collared axe haft securing (in this case it's the Billnäs 12/2).
ReplyDeleteOverall this is a great video (the images are enough, even if you don't get the Finnish voice-over) for the re-hafting methods, sharpening and care of these wonderful tools.
Thanks! That's an interesting idea to open/close the socket a little. I may try this.
DeleteThis article clarifies that working through any feelings of dread that surface with respect to Ascension is entirely of the procedure that causes advantages of forging you climb your cognizance. Working through your feelings of trepidation revamps your mind - which is the thing that encourages you rise.
ReplyDeleteDo all vintage Billnäs and Mariefors axes come with inlay toolsteel bit? Like Japanese knives and swords? If so what type of alloy for the bit was most widely used? And what was the hardness after tempering more or less (HRC or other scale)? Fiskars axe blades nowadays temper between 50-55 HRC. Fiskars aquired Billnäs many years ago. Should I put these questions to Fiskars? I have a background in metallurgy and in welding. And I love just the shape of the Finnish axe very much.
ReplyDeleteI don't know the answers to most of your questions and perhaps many have been lost. On some of the things I can speculate based on experience and what is shown of the manufacturing process.
DeleteI'm no experienced blacksmith but I've forged many simple woodworking tools and hardened and tempered them satisfactorily. A few years ago I got a hold of a newer production Billnäs (1133) like those on picture 6 in this blog post. The temper on my axe was ruined since I dumbly burned out the old broken handle in a wood stove, but I recently managed to reharden it by heating it in a forge and quenching in old motor oil (there are of course better quenching oils than old motor oil).
What I can tell you from this experience is that this type of billnäs axe can be (re)hardened in oil and they get very hard. My files wouldn't even touch it. In this case it is a really good idea to only harden the axe blade, not the eye, lest it could crack. The axe blade also remained a little difficult to shape and sharpen with a file after tempering in the oven (250 deg celcius for an hour). I should temper it back even further but I don't have access to a warmer oven or forge. I think these axes are made from very good steel.
As for the question about lamination I saw a brief video showing some of the forging process of Billnäs axes: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iwx_2p1AJDw.
Around 2:10 they forge this newer style axe, like mine, and from the process shown I would speculate that they are not laminated by forge welding. Forge welding would also take a lot more time and processes.
good day. you could only buy the heads of a classic Finnish ax through you and send them to the Czech Republic. Thanks
ReplyDelete